Processions Are For Teaching and Learning

Dating back to the middle ages, Spain's Holy Week processions have always been tools for teaching.  As the gigantic religious floats (pasos) were carried through the medieval streets, people who were largely illiterate could see the Biblical stories come to life before their eyes.  In today's world of television, Internet and multimedia, the tradition of carrying the pasos continues. However, while the pasos continue to illustrate the traditional stories, the processions have evolved into tools of "active learning."  Active learning is defined as learning by doing.

Children and entire families now participate in the processions.  The traditional Brotherhoods, some hundreds of years old, actively welcome women and children to march with them.  For the children, it is a learning experience that allows them to become part of the story.

Holy Tuesday's (martes santo) Procession of Forgiveness (Procesión de Perdón) in León was at 6:45 p.m.  This was early enough that more children could be involved.

The Procession of Forgiveness is both traditional and very modern.  (You can click on images in this blog for a closer view.  Use the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.)

A young participant.

This girl is in traditional Spanish dress.

Even today, viewing a Centurion in a relatively authentic costume is a learning experience.

Even the child in the baby carriage is dressed in traditional penitent robes.

The lady pushing the baby carriage, presumably the mother, marches with bare feet, a true display of penance and devotion.

A girl munches on an oblea as she greets those along the route.  An oblea is two thin wafers filled with a sweet, sticky paste similar to caramel. 

This boy is obviously very pleased to participate in the procession.

This girl's pigtails fall from under her hood.

Despite all the children I've shown you, adults also learn from the experience.  Tonight at midnight, I will wear the hood and robes of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross to march in the Solemne Via Crucis Procesional (Processional of the Way of the Cross.)  For me, that will certainly be a learning experience which I will report to you tomorrow.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

Sharing Holy Week with Family; A Great Honor Bestowed; and Holy Monday

If nothing else, Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Spain is a time to spend with family as the  resurrection of Christ is celebrated.

My wife, my children, and the good friends with which we usually share an Easter meal are back in Illinois.  This year, they will celebrate Easter Sunday without me, as I explore the traditions, customs and culture of Holy Week in León, Spain.  So, I was very pleased that my niece, Sofía, and her fiancé, Ronny arrived from Switzerland yesterday afternoon to spend the Semana Santa with me and my mother-in-law, María Rosa.  On Easter Sunday, I will still be thinking of my family and friends back in Illinois, but time spent with my family here will be special because of their presence.

Ronny and Sofía went out with me for a drink and tapas this afternoon. My wife, my children and I plan on attending their wedding in Guatemala in Janurary of next year. (You can click on photographs in this blog for a larger view.  Use the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.)

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have been very honored to be invited to take part in Holy Week activities here in León. It is not often that an "outsider" is invited to experience the tradition of the religious processions (procesíons) as an active participant.  However, on Wednesday night at midnight, I will wear the papón (hood and habit) of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross (Cofradía de las Siete Palabras de Jesús en la Cruz) in the Solemne Viá Crusis Procesional (Solemn Way of the Cross Procession.)  While we will be wearing the habits of the Brotherhood, we will not be carrying the giant pasos.  Then, if the weather holds for Good Friday, I will march in a much bigger procession with pasos representing the seven quotes said by Christ on the Cross.  I witnessed the procession two years ago.  This time I will be a participant.  Like I said, "If the weather holds," as there is a liklihood of signifigant rain and snow in the forcast for Friday.


 

The white hoods, red tunics, and black capes are the papónes of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of  Christ on the Cross.  This procession is from 2016.

I was very proud to receive my papón (hood and habit) early this afternoon.  Immediately upon arriving home, I tried it on.

  

Me in my papón.

Me, with my mother-in-law, María Rosa.

Sofia, María Rosa and me.  Speaking of family, in the photo on the wall above my head are my father-in-law, Javier (now deceased); my wife at about two or three years old; and my mother-in-law holding my wife's younger sister, Ana (Sofia's mother.)

OK, after all that, I realized I could just walk up to the wall with my phone (camera) and give you a close up of the photograph.

Again, I must say "thank you" to Eduardo de Paz for inviting me to take part in the activities of the Brotherhood that he founded in 1962. I am honored more than he can possibly know.


Despite my little digression about family and tradition, I would be neglignet if I didn't give you a few photos from Holy Monday (lunes santo). While there were three processions on Monday night, they all overlapped, and I chose only one to photograph.  The Procesión de la Pasión (Procession of Passion) is important because the youngest of the three Brotherhoods that sponsor it is 406 years old. The oldest Brotherhood dates to 1578 and the two youngest date to 1611 and 1612.

The first of three pasos in the procession, shortly after leaving the Church of Santa Nonia.

Women wear high heels despite a very long procession route.

The second of the three pasos.

The third and final paso of the procession.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

A Palm Sunday Procession

There were five processions in León yesterday, Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos).  The weather was cold, but clear.

As I cannot be at every one, I chose to attend the Procession of Our Lord Jesus of the Redemption (Procesión Ntro. Sr. Jesús de la Rendención.)  I decided on this one because, before the main procession, there was a "mini procession" of only about twenty minutes that followed the same route.

Again, I was in very narrow medieval streets, so close that participants brushed against me as they carried the heavy pasos.  I thought that this was the perfect opportunity to not only take photographs, but also to shoot more video from a very close perspective.  At times I had to squeeze tight against building walls to allow enough room for the pasos to pass.  At other times, my toes were only a couple of inches from the steel rods that the pasos-bearers struck against the brick streets to keep time.


The video below excerpts sections of about an hour and a half of processions into a little over three minutes, but because of my close proximity to the participants, I think you might get a better feel for the sights and sounds of a very typical procession.  You can click on the little square on the bottom right of the video to enlarge it to full screen.  Hit "escape" or "esc" to return to normal.

The single paso in the "mini procession" sponsered by the Brotherhoods of the Sobarria.  You can click on photographs in this blog for a closer view.  Hit the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.

Pasos such as this one must navigate narrow streets and make turns with only inches of extras space.  This, and the following photos, are of  the procession sponsored by the  Brotherhood of our Lord Jesus of the Redemption, which was founded in 1991.

 

Ladies participate in the processions in traditional dress.

Participants who wear the hood and gown are know as papones.

The large, ornate pasos are often decorated with flowers.  It takes dozens of men to carry many of the pasos.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

Keeping Traditions Alive: Holy Week in León, Spain

Last night, I was out with family and friends, doing what many in León do during the evening.  We were enjoying drinks and tapas in the barrio húmedo (drinking district).  Our first stop was Ezequiel, a restaurant/bar on the main street of the city that specializes in Spanish ham, chorizo, and other fine Spanish meats.

Ezequiel keeps Holy Week alive all year long by displaying on its walls the hoods of the various religious brotherhoods that sponsor the Easter processions.  At the invitation of Eduardo de Paz, I will participate in two processions during Holy Week.  Eduardo is one of the prime figures in organizing the processions, and is the founder of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.

Some of the hoods of the religious Brotherhoods on the wall at Ezequiel.  The center hood is from the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.  I will wear a hood like this in two processions, one on Wednesday, and another on Good Friday.  (You can click on images in this blog for a larger view.  Hit the "Escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.)

More hoods of the various Brotherhoods.

My mother-in-law, María Rosa, showed me her framed display of the habits and hoods worn by the various Brotherhoods in León. Each Brotherhood has its own papon (habit and hood).  The styles are traditional from the middle ages.

This should give you a better idea of what a procession looks like.  Again, this the the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross. (2016)

After leaving Ezequiel, we went to another restaurant, La Taberna for glasses of wine and  big bowls of garbanzo soup as the tapas.  Before I had finished my wine and soup, one of the members of my party told me that Eduardo was in the back of the bar.  I was surprised to run into him on my first full day in León, but there he was with other members of his Brotherhood. While I didn't ask, they were obviously planning for the Holy Week ahead, but Eduardo stood and greeted me with great affection.  He explained that if I was willing, I would participate in two processions, on Wednesday night marching, and on the night of Good Friday helping to carry one of the pasos (giant religious floats) in the procession.  This is a great honor to which I'm looking forward.

I (right) ran into Eduardo de Paz (left) by chance on a tapas outing my first full day in León. Several months ago, Eduardo invited me to participate in the processions of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.

When I was here two years ago, I did an interview with Eduardo, then 81, about the significance of the processions.  Rather than making you click on a link to get to it, I'm repeating the blog entry below in it's entirety because if you're not familiar with the processions, their origins, and history, I believe it will lay the groundwork for a better understanding of some of the blog posts to come.

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The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future 
(originally published March 23, 2016: two years ago today)

At 81 years of age, Eduardo de Paz is known as a gentleman of quiet and profound faith.  The twelve brotherhoods he serves respect him as a leader, a source of knowledge, wisdom, and strength.  Over the years, he has witnessed decades of change: sometimes for better, sometimes worse.  

 Eduardo de Paz has been a member of the religious brotherhoods of Spain for 69 years.  He is a member of six brotherhoods in León, two in Malaga, two in Seville, one in Madrid and one in Saragosa.  He founded one of the most important brotherhoods in 1962. (You can click on photos in this blog for a larger view.)

“We are now in a bad time,” he says.  “There is a lack of religion.” 

Then, just as quickly, he expresses optimism. “In time, people will be more involved,” he pronounces.  “Of that, I am certain.”  He explains that the processions he has been a part of since the age of 12 are tools for teaching.  In centuries past, the gigantic religious floats (pasos) portraying the Biblical story of death and resurrection were the media of their time.  They told the story of Easter in a way that mere words could never express.  Today, he says, they continue to serve the same purpose.  They create an excitement and inspire people to participate; they introduce people to the brotherhoods and traditions.

Many hours are spent preparing, cleaning, repairing, and assembling pasos (floats) for the processions.

Those who become members of the brotherhoods treasure the experience.  A father often registers his son into the brotherhood upon his birth.  One of Eduardo’s son’s, Eduardo has achieved the honor of Hermano de Oro (Brother of Gold) for 50 years in the brotherhood.  The other son, José Luis will achieve the honor next year when he turns 50, also having a half century in the brotherhood.

 Eduardo's grandson, Jorge de Paz helps his grandfather into the robes that are unique to his brotherhood. Jorge was registered into the brotherhood upon his birth by his father, José Luis.

Eduardo poses in front of the Basilica of San Isodoro with Gonzalo González Cayón, the Abad (President) of another brotherhood, founded in 1572.

Eduardo, who founded the Cofradía de las Siete Palabras de Jesús en la Cruz (Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross) in 1962, says that the people of León take the processions very seriously.  Almost every family will have someone involved.  Thousands, young and old, men and women, will march in the processions. Those who participate will not only help bear a float or play a musical instrument, they will also have an opportunity to pray and become more involved in religion.  Spectators, too, continue to be drawn to the spectacle of a procession, with some drawing tens of thousands of onlookers.  Holy Week is the busiest time of the year in León.

 This paso being prepared for a procession is dedicated to Eduardo, who was the first Abad (President) of his brotherhood. He remain an honorary Abad.

A plaque on the processions honors Eduardo for his service to the brotherhood.

Eduardo explains that the processions of Malaga and Seville are flashier, with many pasos displaying an excess of Baroque gilding, silver, and embellishments. Maybe, he says, this is why the processions of the South are better known. In the North, he declares, people are more serious and tend to favor less ornate pasos.  While still having its share of golden platforms and ostentation, the pasos of León are just as often made of beautifully carved wood without the excess of ornamentation.

Thirty-six processions are conducted over the ten days of la Semana Santa (Holy Week), some small with only a few hundred participants, others huge with many thousands actively involved.  When I asked Eduardo about the future, he was as optimistic as ever.  While the brotherhoods and processions evolve to meet the needs of their times, he does not see a time when processions will not continue to serve the faithful.  

 

A moonlight procession much as it might have looked one hundred years ago, and as it may appear one hundred years from now.

When I asked Eduardo if processions will still be flourishing in 100 years, he responded, “Certainly!”

I will continue reporting on Holy Week in León as the week progresses.

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.

I will be blogging about Holy Week and much more during the upcoming days.  Please subscribe to my blog by clicking here is you would like to be updated when there is something new.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

 

Easter in León

This is the sixth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  While Easter Sunday ends the processions and celebrations,  I will have additional photographs and commentary in upcoming posts.

Holy Saturday ended with rain, leaving only the first of the three scheduled Saturday processions to proceed. In The Procession of Santo Cristo Desenclavado,  the dead Jesus is removed from the cross and finds his place in the arms of his Mother, the Virgin Mary.



Christ is removed from the Cross on the paso, preparing the way for is burial and subsequent resurrection.
(You can click on photographs for a larger view.)

A sculpture of Christ in the Arms of his Mother replaces Christ on the Cross.

Easter morning is clear, despite rain that was predicted earlier.  The final procession starts with participants wearing their hoods (capirotes) as they somberly march. 

Hoods, which allow participants to repent in anonymity are no longer needed upon word that Christ has risen.  The rest of the procession takes place without the facial coverings.




Young people are an important part of the Easter celebration.  Here, sisters Irene, age 8 (front), Paula, age 10, and Mónica, age 5, greet spectators lining the path of the procession.  They are veterans of previous processions here in León and continue a family tradition that goes back generations.

Easter comes with the rising of Christ from the tomb.

The final paso portrays the Virgin Mary wearing a Crown of Glory.  In her right hand is a scepter, which replaces a handkerchief that she had carried before.  Tears and sorrow are replaced with joy.
 

The Virgin Mary is seen as Reina de los Cielos (Queen of Heaven).

I hope you've enjoyed my coverage of Semana Santa (Holy Week) here in León.  There will be more photographs in upcoming blog posts.  I'll also have more posts on food, drink, culture, and other adventures.

Happy Easter to All.

If you would like to view the five other parts of this series, they can be found here:

Part 1: Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

 

Part 2: Holy Week in León -- Family, Tradition & Food

 

Part 3:  The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future

 

Part 4:  Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

Part 5:  Holy Week in León: The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross

 

You can view my website at www.tombellart.com.