A Palm Sunday Procession

There were five processions in León yesterday, Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos).  The weather was cold, but clear.

As I cannot be at every one, I chose to attend the Procession of Our Lord Jesus of the Redemption (Procesión Ntro. Sr. Jesús de la Rendención.)  I decided on this one because, before the main procession, there was a "mini procession" of only about twenty minutes that followed the same route.

Again, I was in very narrow medieval streets, so close that participants brushed against me as they carried the heavy pasos.  I thought that this was the perfect opportunity to not only take photographs, but also to shoot more video from a very close perspective.  At times I had to squeeze tight against building walls to allow enough room for the pasos to pass.  At other times, my toes were only a couple of inches from the steel rods that the pasos-bearers struck against the brick streets to keep time.


The video below excerpts sections of about an hour and a half of processions into a little over three minutes, but because of my close proximity to the participants, I think you might get a better feel for the sights and sounds of a very typical procession.  You can click on the little square on the bottom right of the video to enlarge it to full screen.  Hit "escape" or "esc" to return to normal.

The single paso in the "mini procession" sponsered by the Brotherhoods of the Sobarria.  You can click on photographs in this blog for a closer view.  Hit the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.

Pasos such as this one must navigate narrow streets and make turns with only inches of extras space.  This, and the following photos, are of  the procession sponsored by the  Brotherhood of our Lord Jesus of the Redemption, which was founded in 1991.

 

Ladies participate in the processions in traditional dress.

Participants who wear the hood and gown are know as papones.

The large, ornate pasos are often decorated with flowers.  It takes dozens of men to carry many of the pasos.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

The Procession of Pain in León, Spain, Stayed Mainly in the Rain

To be totally honest, I was so certain that Friday night's single procession, marking the beginning of Holy Week, would be cancelled, that I had already written another article for today. The forecast was calling for a one hundred percent chance of rain at 8:00 p.m., the time the procession was scheduled to begin. When I left home with my camera a half hour earlier, light rain was already falling.  Then, as I got to the Church of Our Lady of the Market and the Road (Iglesia Ntra. Sra. del Mercado y del Camino), the narrow medieval streets were so crowded with umbrella wielding by-standers that it was impossible to get to the front of the church. There were only maybe a thousand people, but in narrow streets with hundreds of open umbrellas, navigation and visibility were virtually impossible.  Sardines are not packed so tightly.  I honestly wonder how many people may have been admitted to the emergency room Friday night due to umbrella-related blindness in one or both eyes.

As I had neglected to bring an umbrella from the United States, my mother-in-law, María Rosa, was kind enough to lend me an oversized pocket umbrella.  It was bright pink, with little light pink flowers stretched in a field along the center. Unfortunately, both my hands were necessary to control my camera, and I never got to use it.  At least, I'm not guilty of putting someone's eye out.

The street was lined with the faithful despite the rain and the promise of heavier rain.  (You can click on photographs in this blog for a larger view.  Hit the "escape" or "esc" key to return to nornal viewing.)

This was the first of the processions of León's Holy Week, Procesión de Dolorosa (Procession of Pain, or Sorrow) which always takes place one week before Good Friday on Viernes de Dolores (the Friday of Pain; in English, also known as the Friday of Sorrows.)  The procession marks the start of the ten day Semana Santa, or Holy Week, not only in León, but also throughout Spain. It recalls the pain and suffering of the Virgin Mary throughout the Passion. Of the 33 processions in León during Holy Week, the Friday of Pain is the only day that a single procession takes place.  Unfortunately, the weather in León is unpredictable, and with more than thirty processions, it is inevitable that some will be the victims of weather during the ten days.

At 8 o'clock when I saw no movement and heard no music, I was sure the procession would be cancelled.  The light rain was becoming heavier. Then, a few minutes later, I heard bells ringing and could tell there was movement at the front of the church.  Despite the downpour, and from a distance, I finally saw the cross of the one paso (religious float) sticking out above the umbrellas.  It swayed from side to side for several minutes.  I thought it likely that they would stay in front of the church for a few minutes, just to make a showing without cancelling the event; then they would return inside. But after a while, the procession moved forward through the street and I could hear the band moving in front of it.

In this procession, medieval hoods do not hide the identities of the participants.

Eventually, I worked my way through the streets and found a spot where the procession would pass by.  The soaked musician came first, followed by ladies carrying candles that somehow stayed lit. At the end came the paso, with the representation of the Virgin Mary, covered in plastic.  The procession turned a corner, and it was obvious they had turned back toward the Church.  The procession would soon be over,  hours earlier than scheduled, but they at least had made a showing for the umbrella-bearing faithful.

The paso depicting the Virgin Mary sorrowfully holding the body of her son was covered in plastic to protect it from the rain.  Some pasos date back hundred of years and cannot be exposed to the harsh weather.

Because of the plastic covering, it was impossible to view the beauty of the paso.  The procession soon turned a corner and headed back to the Church.

After such a procession, the crowds huddled into bars for drinks and tapas.  My mother-in-law and I met friends at El  Rincón de los Gauchos, a well-known tapas bar, and had wine and an excellent garlic soup for tapas.

We enjoyed wine and garlic soup as my camera dried out.

As I'm writing this the following morning, snow is falling outside, but melting as it hits the ground.  There are five processions scheduled for tonight.  We will see what happens.

The view outside my window as I write this blog entry.  It's hard to tell, but the white splotches you see against the road are falling snowflakes.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

Holy Week in León: The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross

 

This is the fifth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  I'll have more information and photographs in subsequent posts.

I attended two of  the three major religious procession on Good Friday.  It's impossible to attend all three unless you cut one short, as the last two take place at the same time.  Yesterday I reported on the Procession of the Pasos. Later in the day came the Procession of The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross. This procession is conducted by the Brotherhood of The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross.  In the days before the procession, I monitored the progress, as volunteers and members of the brotherhood assembled, cleaned, repaired and decorated the pasos (floats).  It is a major endeavor and takes a great deal of planning, coordination, and labor.



Members of the Brotherhood and city officials proclaim the upcoming procession from the balcony of city hall on the Thursday before the event.
(You can click on photographs in this blog for a closer view.)

 

León's mayor (farthest on the balcony) and other officials speak as members of the Brotherhood, some mounted on horses, and the public gather in the plaza below to hear the proclamation.



Horse-mounted riders lead the procession on Good Friday. 

 

There is no paso (float) for the first words of Jesus on the cross.  A banner simply proclaims:

"Father, forgive them, for they do not know what they do." Gospel of Luke 23:34      

The first paso proclaims the second words Jesus spoke: "Today you will be with me in Paradise." Gospel of Luke 23:43



Paso of the Third Word

 



"Jesus said to his mother: "Woman, this is your son."
Then he said to the disciple: "This is your mother." Gospel of John 19:26-27



The Fourth Word: 

"My God, my God, why have you forsaken me?" Matthew 27:46 and Mark 15:34  

Detail from The Fourth Word

 

The Fifth Word: 

"I thirst." Gospel of John 19:28

Detail from The Fifth Word.  Flowers are an important element to all of the pasos.

The Sixth Word:
"It is finished."
Gospel of John 19:30




Closer view of The Sixth Word.
 

Detail from The Sixth Word.
 

By the time the Paso of the Seventh Word passes San Isidoro it is turning dark.

 

 

 The Seventh Word:

"Father, into your hands I commend my spirit." Gospel of Luke 23:46    

I think this very focused post is fitting leading into Easter Sunday.  In six pasos it gives a visual representation of the entire Passion on the Cross. 

 

If you would like to view the other parts of this series, they can be found here:

 

Part 1: Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

 

Part 2: Holy Wee k in León -- Family, Tradition & Food

 

Part 3:  The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future

 

Part 4:  Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

 

 

You can view my website at www.tombellart.com.

 

 

Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

This is the fourth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  I'll have more information and photographs in subsequent posts.

Most Americans (and other nationalities) know little of the massive preparations and elaborate expressions of faith that define Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Spain.  Those who are aware probably know about the grand processions of Seville, Granada, or Malaga.  Just as important, but lesser known, are the processions in the northern city of León where I'm spending Holy Week.  The biggest procession in León is a daytime event on Good Friday, with twelve massive pasos (floats).   It's called The Procession of Pasos.

 

 

The procession was scheduled to leave the church of Santa Nonia at 7:15 in the morning.  A light and steady rain seemed ready to end it before it started.  The pasos (floats) cannot be exposed to even moderate moisture because of the damage it causes to the wood.  Some of the pasos carried during Holy Week are national treasures that date to the 1500s.



After a delay of an hour, the first pasos left Santa Nonia.  The Procession of the Pasos has been in León since 1611.  This is the Oration of Christ in the Garden and dates to 1952.



The Capture is another modern paso.  It was created in 1964.

Some of those carrying the paso show their devotion to penance by walking the many miles and hours of the procession barefoot.



Women have participated in most of the processions for decades.

The Flagellation.  The pasos passed in front of León's Gothic cathedral in addition to many other historic places. While starting in the early morning, the procession did not end until late afternoon.  This paso dates to the 16th century.

 

The Coronation.  Pasos in the processions have traditionally been used to visually represent the story of Christ's passion.

Ecce Homo dates to the early part of the 20th century.



The reverse of Ecce Homo.



Our Father Jesus of Nazareth dates to 1610.  My wife's family has participated in helping to bear this paso for generations.



A closer view of  Our Father Jesus of Nazareth.



Veronica dates to the 1920s.

The Exploiting has been in processions since 1675.

Detail from The Exploiting.  Dice lie atop Christ's robes. 

The Exaltation of the Cross is the newest of the pasos in the procession, from 2000.

The Crucifixion passed through the Plaza of San Isidoro, as did all the pasos.

A close-up of  The Crucifixion.

The Agony of Christ

 

Saint John is from 1946.

The Dolorosa shows the pain of the Virgin.  It is from 1949.

 

 

I hope my photographs and commentary help to give you a feel for Holy Week here in León.  If you would like to follow from the first post, click here.

Tomorrow, I'll be posting photographs and information about another of the great processions of
León:  The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross.


You can view my website at: www.tombellart.com.