León's Storefront Displays of Devotion

Now that Holy Week in León is over, I want to share with you some of the fun demonstrations of devotion that I didn't have time to post before.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, storefronts celebrate Holy Week with displays that portray the processions and pasos (giant religious floats.)  Below are photographs of some of those displays, including more of the Legos.

A wide view of the Legos procession. (You can click on photos in this blog for a closer view.  Press the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.)

Legos figures in black papones (hoods and gowns) carry a paso.

The Legos creations are so detailed as to include babies, bicyclist, dogs, musicians, and much more.

It's important to note that Legos characters with umbrellas can always be found in this display since the possibility of rain is a constant danger to Holy Week processions.

This much more realistic depiction of one of the pasos can be found in the window of a fabric shop.

Another of the model pasos in the fabric shop.

A pharmacy on the main street of León depicts activities of the processions with packaging from medicine, such as this pill box that serves as the table for the Last Supper.

A wide shot of one of the pharmacy windows.

A box for energy pills serves as the platform for one of the pasos.  Presumably, the hooded figures took the pills to maintain enough energy to lift and bear the heavy pasos.

Bottles of wine wear the hoods typical of Holy Week at a store that deals in typical wines, meats, and foods of León.

Another hooded bottle

Representations of women in traditional Holy Week dress in a cosmetics store.

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A Palm Sunday Procession

There were five processions in León yesterday, Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos).  The weather was cold, but clear.

As I cannot be at every one, I chose to attend the Procession of Our Lord Jesus of the Redemption (Procesión Ntro. Sr. Jesús de la Rendención.)  I decided on this one because, before the main procession, there was a "mini procession" of only about twenty minutes that followed the same route.

Again, I was in very narrow medieval streets, so close that participants brushed against me as they carried the heavy pasos.  I thought that this was the perfect opportunity to not only take photographs, but also to shoot more video from a very close perspective.  At times I had to squeeze tight against building walls to allow enough room for the pasos to pass.  At other times, my toes were only a couple of inches from the steel rods that the pasos-bearers struck against the brick streets to keep time.


The video below excerpts sections of about an hour and a half of processions into a little over three minutes, but because of my close proximity to the participants, I think you might get a better feel for the sights and sounds of a very typical procession.  You can click on the little square on the bottom right of the video to enlarge it to full screen.  Hit "escape" or "esc" to return to normal.

The single paso in the "mini procession" sponsered by the Brotherhoods of the Sobarria.  You can click on photographs in this blog for a closer view.  Hit the "escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.

Pasos such as this one must navigate narrow streets and make turns with only inches of extras space.  This, and the following photos, are of  the procession sponsored by the  Brotherhood of our Lord Jesus of the Redemption, which was founded in 1991.

 

Ladies participate in the processions in traditional dress.

Participants who wear the hood and gown are know as papones.

The large, ornate pasos are often decorated with flowers.  It takes dozens of men to carry many of the pasos.

I will be blogging about Holy Week from León and much more in the upcoming days.  If you would like to follow along and receive a notification when a new post appears, please subscribe by clicking here and entering your email address.

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

Keeping Traditions Alive: Holy Week in León, Spain

Last night, I was out with family and friends, doing what many in León do during the evening.  We were enjoying drinks and tapas in the barrio húmedo (drinking district).  Our first stop was Ezequiel, a restaurant/bar on the main street of the city that specializes in Spanish ham, chorizo, and other fine Spanish meats.

Ezequiel keeps Holy Week alive all year long by displaying on its walls the hoods of the various religious brotherhoods that sponsor the Easter processions.  At the invitation of Eduardo de Paz, I will participate in two processions during Holy Week.  Eduardo is one of the prime figures in organizing the processions, and is the founder of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.

Some of the hoods of the religious Brotherhoods on the wall at Ezequiel.  The center hood is from the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.  I will wear a hood like this in two processions, one on Wednesday, and another on Good Friday.  (You can click on images in this blog for a larger view.  Hit the "Escape" or "esc" key to return to a normal view.)

More hoods of the various Brotherhoods.

My mother-in-law, María Rosa, showed me her framed display of the habits and hoods worn by the various Brotherhoods in León. Each Brotherhood has its own papon (habit and hood).  The styles are traditional from the middle ages.

This should give you a better idea of what a procession looks like.  Again, this the the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross. (2016)

After leaving Ezequiel, we went to another restaurant, La Taberna for glasses of wine and  big bowls of garbanzo soup as the tapas.  Before I had finished my wine and soup, one of the members of my party told me that Eduardo was in the back of the bar.  I was surprised to run into him on my first full day in León, but there he was with other members of his Brotherhood. While I didn't ask, they were obviously planning for the Holy Week ahead, but Eduardo stood and greeted me with great affection.  He explained that if I was willing, I would participate in two processions, on Wednesday night marching, and on the night of Good Friday helping to carry one of the pasos (giant religious floats) in the procession.  This is a great honor to which I'm looking forward.

I (right) ran into Eduardo de Paz (left) by chance on a tapas outing my first full day in León. Several months ago, Eduardo invited me to participate in the processions of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.

When I was here two years ago, I did an interview with Eduardo, then 81, about the significance of the processions.  Rather than making you click on a link to get to it, I'm repeating the blog entry below in it's entirety because if you're not familiar with the processions, their origins, and history, I believe it will lay the groundwork for a better understanding of some of the blog posts to come.

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The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future 
(originally published March 23, 2016: two years ago today)

At 81 years of age, Eduardo de Paz is known as a gentleman of quiet and profound faith.  The twelve brotherhoods he serves respect him as a leader, a source of knowledge, wisdom, and strength.  Over the years, he has witnessed decades of change: sometimes for better, sometimes worse.  

 Eduardo de Paz has been a member of the religious brotherhoods of Spain for 69 years.  He is a member of six brotherhoods in León, two in Malaga, two in Seville, one in Madrid and one in Saragosa.  He founded one of the most important brotherhoods in 1962. (You can click on photos in this blog for a larger view.)

“We are now in a bad time,” he says.  “There is a lack of religion.” 

Then, just as quickly, he expresses optimism. “In time, people will be more involved,” he pronounces.  “Of that, I am certain.”  He explains that the processions he has been a part of since the age of 12 are tools for teaching.  In centuries past, the gigantic religious floats (pasos) portraying the Biblical story of death and resurrection were the media of their time.  They told the story of Easter in a way that mere words could never express.  Today, he says, they continue to serve the same purpose.  They create an excitement and inspire people to participate; they introduce people to the brotherhoods and traditions.

Many hours are spent preparing, cleaning, repairing, and assembling pasos (floats) for the processions.

Those who become members of the brotherhoods treasure the experience.  A father often registers his son into the brotherhood upon his birth.  One of Eduardo’s son’s, Eduardo has achieved the honor of Hermano de Oro (Brother of Gold) for 50 years in the brotherhood.  The other son, José Luis will achieve the honor next year when he turns 50, also having a half century in the brotherhood.

 Eduardo's grandson, Jorge de Paz helps his grandfather into the robes that are unique to his brotherhood. Jorge was registered into the brotherhood upon his birth by his father, José Luis.

Eduardo poses in front of the Basilica of San Isodoro with Gonzalo González Cayón, the Abad (President) of another brotherhood, founded in 1572.

Eduardo, who founded the Cofradía de las Siete Palabras de Jesús en la Cruz (Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross) in 1962, says that the people of León take the processions very seriously.  Almost every family will have someone involved.  Thousands, young and old, men and women, will march in the processions. Those who participate will not only help bear a float or play a musical instrument, they will also have an opportunity to pray and become more involved in religion.  Spectators, too, continue to be drawn to the spectacle of a procession, with some drawing tens of thousands of onlookers.  Holy Week is the busiest time of the year in León.

 This paso being prepared for a procession is dedicated to Eduardo, who was the first Abad (President) of his brotherhood. He remain an honorary Abad.

A plaque on the processions honors Eduardo for his service to the brotherhood.

Eduardo explains that the processions of Malaga and Seville are flashier, with many pasos displaying an excess of Baroque gilding, silver, and embellishments. Maybe, he says, this is why the processions of the South are better known. In the North, he declares, people are more serious and tend to favor less ornate pasos.  While still having its share of golden platforms and ostentation, the pasos of León are just as often made of beautifully carved wood without the excess of ornamentation.

Thirty-six processions are conducted over the ten days of la Semana Santa (Holy Week), some small with only a few hundred participants, others huge with many thousands actively involved.  When I asked Eduardo about the future, he was as optimistic as ever.  While the brotherhoods and processions evolve to meet the needs of their times, he does not see a time when processions will not continue to serve the faithful.  

 

A moonlight procession much as it might have looked one hundred years ago, and as it may appear one hundred years from now.

When I asked Eduardo if processions will still be flourishing in 100 years, he responded, “Certainly!”

I will continue reporting on Holy Week in León as the week progresses.

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.

I will be blogging about Holy Week and much more during the upcoming days.  Please subscribe to my blog by clicking here is you would like to be updated when there is something new.

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.