Being There: Easter is Coming -- So, I'm Going to Spain...

I have been honored in a way that few Americans might understand.

I've been invited to march in one of Spain's traditional (and amazing) Holy Week processions.  To put it in perspective, for me, this is akin to Eliza being invited to the ball.

But I will participate fully so as to gain knowledge and understanding that can only be achieved through, as Peter Sellers playing Chance Gardner might refer to, as "being there."

I photographed most of the Holy Week processions in León, Spain in 2016.  I will be in León again this year for Easter, not only to photograph these amazing demonstrations of devotion, but also to participate. This is one of the major processions, organized by the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.  It is with this Brotherhood that I have been invited to participate.

I have been both a reporter and photographer at many happenings and events in the United States and throughout the world.  However, viewing an event through a lens or interviewing others about their participation is not the same as experiencing it for yourself.

The Processions start on Friday the week before Easter, with as many as seven processions in a single day, everything ending on Easter Sunday.  They are sponsored by Catholic Brotherhoods, many of them centuries old. The processions take place both night and day.  The robes and hoods date back to the the medieval period.  Hoods were originally worn to protect the identity of the penitents as they carried the heavy religious floats (pasos) on their shoulders.  In this manner, only God would know their identity.

Just as Ernest Hemingway often gained knowledge of what he wrote about by being actively involved (such as volunteering to drive an ambulance in the Spanish Civil War), I hope that changing my viewpoint from that of by-stander to active participant will allow me to gain a much deeper understanding of the processions and what it means to march along directly with the members of a Brotherhood.

Some of those carrying the paso show their devotion to penance by walking the many miles and hours of the procession barefoot, just as my wife's grandfather did almost a century ago.

I will be blogging throughout Holy Week, hopefully with new insight into the processions and rituals, but also about tapas, and more!  If you want a reminder every time I put out a new post, click here and submit your email adddress.  Also, please feel free to post comments.

Tapas are one of my favorite subjects to blog about, so not only will you be getting religion, but also, food!

You can view my website at:  http://www.tombellart.com.

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This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

 

I Told You So!

Over the past several years, I've posted several articles, complete with photographs, about the delicious food to be enjoyed in León, Spain.  My emphasis has been on my favorite variety: tapas.  For those of you who don't know, tapas are an ancient culinary tradition in Spain.  Tapas, in simple terms, are snacks served whenever you order a drink.  But as you'll see, they're much, much more!

However, tapas are only part of the culinary legacy of León.  The people of León love food.  You'll find amazing dishes everywhere, from small bars that serve only drinks and tapas, to fine restaurants that serve everything from traditional Spanish foods to modern, innovative creations.  That's why I'm pleased to tell you that my favorite culinary city has been named: "Capital Española de las Gastronomía 2018."  Or in English: 2018 Gastronomic Capital of Spain.

In the video below that promotes León's achievement, you'll see many of the places I've photographed and presented in this blog.

You can view the article from León's daily newspaper by clicking here.

My photograph Modern and Medieval is taken from one of the streets that radiates from the Barrio Húmedo (the wet district, which is the area with many bars and tapas venues.)  In the background is León's famed Gothic cathedral. In the foreground is a wall with a modern mural.  This photograph will be exhibited this fall and winter at the 2017 Shrode Photography Competition and Exhibit at the Mitchell Museum in Mt. Vernon, Illinois. The opening reception will be Saturday, October 21, 6:30 p.m. and the top award winners will be announced that evening. Three Cedarhurst galleries will be opening their new exhibits which will be celebrated with food, a cash bar and dessert.  The exhibition will be open from Oct. 22  through Dec. 31, 2017.  (You can click on the image for a closer view.)

Bars like the Camarote Madrid serve tapas along with every drink.

Below are some links to some of my previous article about the food and tapas of León.

Spain Means History, Tapas, more Tapas ...and Photographs

Photographing (and Eating) Tapas in León, Spain

Photographing (and Eating) Tapas in León, Spain - Part Two

Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

Holy Week in León -- Family, Tradition & Food

Photos from León

Are Tapas Evolving?

You can view my website at: www.tombellart.com.

 

This blog has been named one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

 

 

 

 

See My Photo at the 2017 Shrode Photography Competition and Exhibit

My photograph, Modern and Medieval, will be one of 33 photos exhibited this fall at the 2017 Shrode Photography Competition and Exhibit at the Mitchell Museum in Mt. Vernon, Illinois.

Modern and Medieval portrays a modern mural adjacent to the Gothic cathedral in León, Spain.  You can click on the image for a larger view.

The judge for the 2017 competition is Andrea Hoelscher, a widely exhibited artist and photography teacher, currently on the faculty at University of Southern Indiana Art Department since 2006.

The opening reception will be Saturday, October 21, 6:30 p.m. and the top award winners will be announced that evening. Three Cedarhurst galleries will be opening their new exhibits which will be celebrated with food, a cash bar and dessert.  The exhibition will be open from Oct. 22  through Dec. 31, 2017. I hope to see you at the opening.

In other news, for faithful readers of this blog, you'll be pleased to learn that Feedspot has named this blog as one of the top 75 fine art photography blogs on the planet.

 You can view my fine art photography website at: www.tombellart.com.

Cedarhurst Biennial Exhibition 2017

Two of my images will be on exhibit this summer at the Cedarhurst Biennial Exhibition at the Mitchell Museum in Mt. Vernon, Illinois.

Early Morning Serenade.  León, Spain.  (You can click on images in this blog for a larger view.)

The Eyes of Santa Nonia.  León, Spain.

 

Interestingly enough, both images are related.  I got up before daylight to photography an early morning Holy Week procession at the Church of Santa Nonia.  It was raining off-and-on and I shot several images as I waited for word on whether the procession would be cancelled or delayed due to the rain.  Participants in the procession passed by this street art painting as they neared the Church, and I got a couple of good frames.  After a few more minutes there was an announcement that the procession would be delayed until later in the morning.

After having awakened so early, I didn't want to waste the rest of the morning, so I walked toward the Cathedral, located in the heart of León. As I walked on the main street, I noticed a lady washing the windows of a shop, getting ready for the business day.  It was hard to ignore the big Elvis statue that seemed to be serenading her.  So, both images that will be in the exhibition were taken within a few minutes of each other.

León's Cathedral, among the most beautiful in the world, before a Holy Week procession, although on a different day.

The opening of the exhibition will be on July 29, 6:30 -8:30 p.m.  The show will run through October 8, 2017

You can view my fine art photography website at:  www.tombellart.com.

The Miracle in León's Cathedral

I don't know if the miracle was designed by man, or by God.  I also don't know if it occurs daily at a certain hour, or if it is a truly rare event. I'm not even sure if it is well-known, or something I discovered by accident through my photography.  I am sure, however, that it is amazing.

It was not mentioned in the pre-recorded audio handset tour of  León's Cathedral, and I can find no source for it on the Internet.  My Mother-in-Law, a native of León, was also not familiar with it.

I'm sure that no one noticed it while on the Cathedral tour, including me, or there would have been "ooohs" and "ahhhs."  It was not until today, when I reviewed the photographs I had taken two days previously that it literally came to light. But there it was on the very last frame I shot while in the interior of the Cathedral.




This is not the photo in question, but it will help you understand what you are seeing later on.  I shot this photograph of the main alter earlier in the self-guided tour. In the Cathedral, there are 737 stained glass windows, covering 1,800 square meters.  They're very difficult to photograph without a tripod and special equipment, which aren't allowed. The Cathedral is sometimes referred to as the "House of Light" because of the unique quality given to it by the stained glass. 
(You can click on the photographs in this blog for a closer view.)



The exterior of the Cathedral as it captures the warmth of the sun at the end of the day.

The rosette or rose windows of the Cathedral are known as some of the most spectacular in the world.  Most of the stained glass throughout the church is original from the 13th through 15th centuries  An exterior photograph gives viewers little idea of what they will see on the inside.



An interior view of one of the rosettes.


When I shot the final photographs before leaving the Cathedral, I purposely made them very dark to ensure that I captured the brilliant colors of the stained glass without washing them out.  While it obscured the interior details of the church, the glass shone brilliantly.  There was also something else I didn't expect.



While it seems impossible, a rosette from all the way across the Cathedral (at the main entrance of the Chruch) is perfectly projected onto the ribbed arches of the vault in the rear of the Cathedral, directly above the main alter.  It maintains its shape, colors and focus as it sits above the stained glass windows, perfectly in the center of the vault.  At first, I thought that I had accidently made a double exposure, which is very difficult to do by accident.  But the camera data shows that this is a single photograph.   It is the last exposure I made before exiting the church.  The rosette is much more visible in the photograph than it would have been to the eyes of those in the church because of its extreme underexposure.  Go back to the first photo in this post to see the same vault several minutes earlier without the projectied rosette.

A close-up of the projected rosette.

Is it possible that Gothic artists from the 13th century had the knowledge of optics, physics, and the engineering skills to purposely make a rose window project onto a distant wall?  Is this an accident of light, construction, and optics that was never planned?  Or is it a testament to the miracles that can happen when you're ready to see them? 

If anyone is familiar with this extreme effect of light in the "House of Light," please send me the details and I will post them.  Otherwise, you can still post your thoughts and opinions below in the comments section.

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.
 

Photos from León

Now that Holy Week is over, I wanted to share some of the views I came across last week walking the streets of León.  The city dates back to the time of  the Roman Legions, and parts of the old Roman walls still stand.  The main street today, Calle Ancha (Long Street) is the same main route used by the Romans and goes directly by the great Gothic Cathedral, once the site of Roman baths.

The Gothic Cathedral is also known as the "House of Light" because of the massive and beautiful  stained glass windows throughout.  The light is also beautiful on the outside of the church as the sun starts to get low.



Detail from one of the many stone
carvings on the church.

A street musician against a wall that adjoins the Cathedral.



On the Calle Ancha near the Cathedral, Elvis serenades the window washer.  The side streets open up to bars, restaurants, and shops in what is known as the barrio húmedo (drinking district).

 

Tapas, the delicious free food you get every time you order a beer or glass of wine are found in almost every bar and restaurant.  These are home-made potato chips and sauce from El Patio, one of the newer tapas bars.

At the Camarote Madrid, one of the better known tapas establishments, even a bottle of water is enough of an order to get you a free plate of Spanish olives.

 

Spanish ham is arguably the best in the world.  Here, it hangs above the Camarote Madrid's bar.  The ham is so popular, and consumed in such huge quantities, that this is a common sight in bars throughout León.

I'll have more from León as the week continues.

 

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.

 



 

Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

This is an overview of Easter Week in León, Spain.  I will have much more information and photographs in subsequent posts as Holy Week progresses.

Maybe you’re familiar with the famous Holy Week activities of Seville or Malaga, or Antigua, Guatemala.  If so, you know that thousands gather to watch amazing religious processions as hundreds march through the streets, often in medieval habits or costumes carrying gigantic floats that depict the passion of Christ.  Many of the floats (pasos) date from the Baroque era and have been carried in the same procession year-after-year for centuries.  If you’ve seen one of these you’re very lucky.

Lesser known, but just as amazing are the processions of León.  It’s a small city in the north of Spain, maybe best known for its beautiful Gothic cathedral.

The Gothic cathedral in  León is known as one of the most beautiful in the world.  This photograph is from three years ago. My wife is in the middle.  She is with her cousin and his wife.  You can click on any of the photographs in this blog for a larger view.

León is also known as the best city in Spain for tapas, those generous portions of Spanish ham, or garlic soup, blood sausage, potato omelet, or a thousand other typical foods you get for free every time you order a drink in one of the city’s famous bars.  I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s worth coming to León just to wander the medieval streets of the barrio húmedo (drinking district) and have a cerveza (beer) or vino tinto (red wine) along with one of the many tapas that are given to you with the drink.  However, in the weeks around Easter, you should be aware that Limonada is the drink to have.  Every bar has its own version during the Easter season, but except for the examples that have a slice of lemon or orange, I can’t find any evidence of citrus.  It seems to be a mixture of red wine, in some cases a strong liquor, a bit of sugar, and who knows what else. It's much like sangría, but I think a bit stronger.  The locals warn you, don’t be fooled by its mild nature.  Two or three are plenty.

Limonada and tapas.  Three servings of limonada, an order of Russian salad and two pots of salmorejo. Salmorejo is similar to gazpacho, but thicker.  It is topped with bits of fried Spanish ham. The total cost was about US$5.00.

The Processions start on Friday the week before Easter, with as many as seven processions in a single day, everything ending on Easter Sunday.  They are sponsored by Catholic brotherhoods, many of them very ancient.  Young and old participate, and women also now actively take part in the processions.

A woman in traditional head-wear in a  Friday procession.

This Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) procession is organized by the Brotherhood of Our Lord Jesus the Redeemer.  It stops in front of the Gothic cathedral as thousand watch. The float is typical of those in the Easter week processions.

 

At the time I took this photography, I didn't know its family significance.  My wife's Grandfather, my mother-in-law's father, Gonzalo de Paz purchased this Palm Sunday paso in the 1940s as President (Abad) of the Cofradía del Dulce Nombre de Jesús Nazareno (Brotherhood of the Sweet Name of Jesus of Nazareth). 

The modern mixes with the new, as Sponge Bob looks on as the procession rounds the Cathedral plaza.

It's amazing at how much pride the people of  León take in their Easter processions.  Store windows compete for the most amazing representation of Holy Week.

Pasos are represented by pharmaceutical packaging in the pharmacy window.

This is one of the most amazing Legos creations I've ever seen. In an embroidery shop window, hundreds of Legos people and objects depict a procession in the Plaza Mayor.

Legos spectators enjoy a procession.  Despite the umbrellas, a procession will be called off  if there is more than a small shower.  The pasos are generally made of wood and are very old.  They are easily damaged by water.

The Legos scenes are extremely detailed.

The Legos window is very popular and draws many passersby unable to resist the creativity and detail of the scene.

This is my first blog post on Easter week in León.  More will be coming in the days ahead.

You can view my website at www.tombellart.com.