Last night, I was out with family and friends, doing what many in León do during the evening. We were enjoying drinks and tapas in the
barrio húmedo (drinking district). Our first stop was
Ezequiel, a restaurant/bar on the main street of the city that specializes in Spanish ham, chorizo, and other fine Spanish meats.
Ezequiel keeps Holy Week alive all year long by displaying on its walls the hoods of the various religious brotherhoods that sponsor the Easter processions. At the invitation of Eduardo de Paz, I will participate in two processions during Holy Week. Eduardo is one of the prime figures in organizing the processions, and is the founder of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross.
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| Some of the hoods of the religious Brotherhoods on the wall at Ezequiel.
The center hood is from the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on
the Cross. I will wear a hood like this in two processions, one on
Wednesday, and another on Good Friday. (You can click on images in this
blog for a larger view. Hit the "Escape" or "esc" key to return to a
normal view.) |
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| More hoods of the various Brotherhoods. |
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| My mother-in-law, María Rosa, showed me her framed display of the habits and hoods worn by the various Brotherhoods in León. Each Brotherhood has its own papon (habit and hood). The styles are traditional from the middle ages. |
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| This should give you a better idea of what a procession looks like. Again, this the the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross. (2016) |
After leaving
Ezequiel, we went to another restaurant, La Taberna for glasses of wine and big bowls of garbanzo soup as the tapas. Before I had finished my wine and soup, one of the members of my party told me that Eduardo was in the back of the bar. I was surprised to run into him on my first full day in León, but there he was with other members of his Brotherhood. While I didn't ask, they were obviously planning for the Holy Week ahead, but Eduardo stood and greeted me with great affection. He explained that if I was willing, I would participate in two processions, on Wednesday night marching, and on the night of Good Friday helping to carry one of the
pasos (giant religious floats) in the procession. This is a great honor to which I'm looking forward.
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| I (right) ran into Eduardo de Paz (left) by chance on a tapas outing my first full day in León. Several months ago, Eduardo invited me to participate in the processions of the Brotherhood of the Seven Words of Christ on the Cross. |
When I was here two years ago, I did an interview with Eduardo, then 81, about the significance of the processions. Rather than making you click on a link to get to it, I'm repeating the blog entry below in it's entirety because if you're not familiar with the processions, their origins, and history, I believe it will lay the groundwork for a better understanding of some of the blog posts to come.
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The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future
(originally published March 23, 2016: two years ago today)
At 81 years of age, Eduardo de
Paz is known as a gentleman of quiet and profound faith. The twelve brotherhoods he serves respect him
as a leader, a source of knowledge, wisdom, and strength. Over the years, he has witnessed decades of
change: sometimes for better, sometimes worse.
Eduardo de Paz has been a member of the religious brotherhoods of Spain for 69 years. He is a member of six brotherhoods in León,
two in Malaga, two in Seville, one in Madrid and one in Saragosa. He
founded one of the most important brotherhoods in 1962. (You can click on photos in this blog for a larger view.)
“We are now in a bad time,” he
says. “There is a lack of religion.”
Then, just as quickly, he
expresses optimism. “In time, people
will be more involved,” he pronounces. “Of
that, I am certain.” He explains that
the processions he has been a part of since the age of 12 are tools for
teaching. In centuries past, the gigantic religious floats (pasos) portraying the Biblical
story of death and resurrection were the media of their time.
They told the story of Easter in a way that mere words could never express. Today, he says, they continue to serve the
same purpose. They create an excitement and
inspire people to participate; they introduce people to the brotherhoods and
traditions.
Many hours are spent preparing, cleaning, repairing, and assembling pasos (floats) for the processions.
Those who become members of the
brotherhoods treasure the experience. A
father often registers his son into the brotherhood upon his birth. One of Eduardo’s son’s, Eduardo has achieved the
honor of Hermano de Oro (Brother of Gold) for 50 years in the brotherhood. The other son, José Luis will achieve the
honor next year when he turns 50, also having a half century in the
brotherhood.
Eduardo's
grandson, Jorge de Paz helps his grandfather into the robes that are unique to
his brotherhood. Jorge was registered into the brotherhood upon his
birth by his father, José Luis.
Eduardo poses in front of the Basilica of San Isodoro with Gonzalo González Cayón, the Abad (President) of another
brotherhood, founded in 1572.
Eduardo, who founded the Cofradía
de las Siete Palabras de Jesús en la Cruz (Brotherhood of the Seven Words of
Jesus on the Cross) in 1962, says that the people of León take the processions
very seriously. Almost every family will
have someone involved. Thousands, young
and old, men and women, will march in the processions. Those who participate
will not only help bear a float or play a musical instrument, they will also
have an opportunity to pray and become more involved in religion. Spectators, too, continue to be drawn to the spectacle
of a procession, with some drawing tens of thousands of onlookers. Holy Week is the busiest time of the year in León.
This paso being prepared for a procession is dedicated to Eduardo, who was the first Abad (President) of his brotherhood. He remain an honorary Abad.
A plaque on the processions honors Eduardo for his service to the brotherhood.
Eduardo explains that the
processions of Malaga and Seville are flashier, with many pasos displaying an
excess of Baroque gilding, silver, and embellishments. Maybe, he says, this is why the processions
of the South are better known. In the North, he declares, people are more
serious and tend to favor less ornate pasos. While still having its share of golden platforms
and ostentation, the pasos of León are
just as often made of beautifully carved wood without the excess of ornamentation.
Thirty-six processions are
conducted over the ten days of la Semana Santa (Holy Week), some small with
only a few hundred participants, others huge with many thousands actively
involved. When I asked Eduardo about the
future, he was as optimistic as ever. While
the brotherhoods and processions evolve to meet the needs of their times, he
does not see a time when processions will not continue to serve the
faithful.
A moonlight procession much as it might have looked one hundred years ago, and as it may appear one hundred years from now.
When I asked Eduardo if
processions will still be flourishing in 100 years, he responded, “Certainly!”
I will continue reporting on Holy Week in León as the week progresses.
I will be blogging about Holy Week and much more during the upcoming days. Please
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