Are Tapas Evolving?

If you follow my blog, you know that I'm very fond of tapas. So you can imagine how excited I got when I discovered that tapas may be evolving into something even better. Tapas are those little tastes of Spain you get every time you order a drink, especially in León.  For less than US$2.00 in most cases, you get a glass of wine or beer and a plate of typical Spanish food.


The Camarote Madrid is probably my favorite tapas bar in León.  The drinks are slightly more expensive than in most, but there's tons of atmosphere.

Salmorejo is one of the excellent tapas at the Camarote Madrid. 

Jamón Jamón is still my second-place tapas bar winner, and sometimes I would rate it as the best.

There's no choice of tapas at Jamón Jamón.   It's always a slice of bread with jamón serrano (arguably the best ham in the world), two types of sausage, and a wedge of manchego cheese. A glass of wine with the tapas is about US$1.30.  Despite the lack of variety, it's delicious every time.



Now there's a new kid on one of León's blocks, challenging what it means to be a tapas bar.  During my time in  León I've been surprised by what you can get for under US$2.00.  That being said, I was SHOCKED when I stopped by Las Tapas.



Las Tapas, not being in the main part of the barrio húmedo (drinking district),  lacks a little of the atmosphere of some of the other bars.  It, however, makes up for it with it's selection of tapas.



I saw this plate when I first walked into Las Tapas.  I first thought it was an order of appetizers off a menu.  However, I soon learned that it was the tapas that came with two white wines.  The couple who ordered it was kind enough to let the strange American photograph their food before they tore into it.  The cost for the wine and tapas was less than US$4.00.

 

I ordered a red wine.  With it I got a fried egg, morcilla (blood sausage) French fries, and bread.

I like the way the trend in tapas is going -- more food -- high quality -- extraordinary prices.   With competition like that provided by Las Tapas, maybe it won't be long before the tapas I get with my glass of red wine are the Spanish equivalent of a 16 oz. aged ribeye steak, a baked potato, grilled asparagus, and a house salad.  If that happens, I'll be there for the grand opening.

I've been blogging from Spain for the past couple of weeks, including Holy Week.  Please take a look at my previous posts.

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.



Photos from León

Now that Holy Week is over, I wanted to share some of the views I came across last week walking the streets of León.  The city dates back to the time of  the Roman Legions, and parts of the old Roman walls still stand.  The main street today, Calle Ancha (Long Street) is the same main route used by the Romans and goes directly by the great Gothic Cathedral, once the site of Roman baths.

The Gothic Cathedral is also known as the "House of Light" because of the massive and beautiful  stained glass windows throughout.  The light is also beautiful on the outside of the church as the sun starts to get low.



Detail from one of the many stone
carvings on the church.

A street musician against a wall that adjoins the Cathedral.



On the Calle Ancha near the Cathedral, Elvis serenades the window washer.  The side streets open up to bars, restaurants, and shops in what is known as the barrio húmedo (drinking district).

 

Tapas, the delicious free food you get every time you order a beer or glass of wine are found in almost every bar and restaurant.  These are home-made potato chips and sauce from El Patio, one of the newer tapas bars.

At the Camarote Madrid, one of the better known tapas establishments, even a bottle of water is enough of an order to get you a free plate of Spanish olives.

 

Spanish ham is arguably the best in the world.  Here, it hangs above the Camarote Madrid's bar.  The ham is so popular, and consumed in such huge quantities, that this is a common sight in bars throughout León.

I'll have more from León as the week continues.

 

You can view my website at:  www.tombellart.com.

 



 

Easter in León

This is the sixth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  While Easter Sunday ends the processions and celebrations,  I will have additional photographs and commentary in upcoming posts.

Holy Saturday ended with rain, leaving only the first of the three scheduled Saturday processions to proceed. In The Procession of Santo Cristo Desenclavado,  the dead Jesus is removed from the cross and finds his place in the arms of his Mother, the Virgin Mary.



Christ is removed from the Cross on the paso, preparing the way for is burial and subsequent resurrection.
(You can click on photographs for a larger view.)

A sculpture of Christ in the Arms of his Mother replaces Christ on the Cross.

Easter morning is clear, despite rain that was predicted earlier.  The final procession starts with participants wearing their hoods (capirotes) as they somberly march. 

Hoods, which allow participants to repent in anonymity are no longer needed upon word that Christ has risen.  The rest of the procession takes place without the facial coverings.




Young people are an important part of the Easter celebration.  Here, sisters Irene, age 8 (front), Paula, age 10, and Mónica, age 5, greet spectators lining the path of the procession.  They are veterans of previous processions here in León and continue a family tradition that goes back generations.

Easter comes with the rising of Christ from the tomb.

The final paso portrays the Virgin Mary wearing a Crown of Glory.  In her right hand is a scepter, which replaces a handkerchief that she had carried before.  Tears and sorrow are replaced with joy.
 

The Virgin Mary is seen as Reina de los Cielos (Queen of Heaven).

I hope you've enjoyed my coverage of Semana Santa (Holy Week) here in León.  There will be more photographs in upcoming blog posts.  I'll also have more posts on food, drink, culture, and other adventures.

Happy Easter to All.

If you would like to view the five other parts of this series, they can be found here:

Part 1: Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

 

Part 2: Holy Week in León -- Family, Tradition & Food

 

Part 3:  The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future

 

Part 4:  Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

Part 5:  Holy Week in León: The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross

 

You can view my website at www.tombellart.com.

 

 

Holy Week in León: The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross

 

This is the fifth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  I'll have more information and photographs in subsequent posts.

I attended two of  the three major religious procession on Good Friday.  It's impossible to attend all three unless you cut one short, as the last two take place at the same time.  Yesterday I reported on the Procession of the Pasos. Later in the day came the Procession of The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross. This procession is conducted by the Brotherhood of The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross.  In the days before the procession, I monitored the progress, as volunteers and members of the brotherhood assembled, cleaned, repaired and decorated the pasos (floats).  It is a major endeavor and takes a great deal of planning, coordination, and labor.



Members of the Brotherhood and city officials proclaim the upcoming procession from the balcony of city hall on the Thursday before the event.
(You can click on photographs in this blog for a closer view.)

 

León's mayor (farthest on the balcony) and other officials speak as members of the Brotherhood, some mounted on horses, and the public gather in the plaza below to hear the proclamation.



Horse-mounted riders lead the procession on Good Friday. 

 

There is no paso (float) for the first words of Jesus on the cross.  A banner simply proclaims:

"Father, forgive them, for they do not know what they do." Gospel of Luke 23:34      

The first paso proclaims the second words Jesus spoke: "Today you will be with me in Paradise." Gospel of Luke 23:43



Paso of the Third Word

 



"Jesus said to his mother: "Woman, this is your son."
Then he said to the disciple: "This is your mother." Gospel of John 19:26-27



The Fourth Word: 

"My God, my God, why have you forsaken me?" Matthew 27:46 and Mark 15:34  

Detail from The Fourth Word

 

The Fifth Word: 

"I thirst." Gospel of John 19:28

Detail from The Fifth Word.  Flowers are an important element to all of the pasos.

The Sixth Word:
"It is finished."
Gospel of John 19:30




Closer view of The Sixth Word.
 

Detail from The Sixth Word.
 

By the time the Paso of the Seventh Word passes San Isidoro it is turning dark.

 

 

 The Seventh Word:

"Father, into your hands I commend my spirit." Gospel of Luke 23:46    

I think this very focused post is fitting leading into Easter Sunday.  In six pasos it gives a visual representation of the entire Passion on the Cross. 

 

If you would like to view the other parts of this series, they can be found here:

 

Part 1: Preparing for Easter Week (Semana Santa) in León, Spain – An Unexpected Surprise of Tradition, Legos, Family, Pharmaceuticals, Food & Drink

 

Part 2: Holy Wee k in León -- Family, Tradition & Food

 

Part 3:  The Holy Week Processions of León -- Faith and Optimism for the Future

 

Part 4:  Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

 

 

You can view my website at www.tombellart.com.

 

 

Procession of the Pasos: Twenty Photographs to Help You Understand Holy Week in León on This Good Friday

This is the fourth in a series of posts on Holy Week in León, Spain.  I'll have more information and photographs in subsequent posts.

Most Americans (and other nationalities) know little of the massive preparations and elaborate expressions of faith that define Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Spain.  Those who are aware probably know about the grand processions of Seville, Granada, or Malaga.  Just as important, but lesser known, are the processions in the northern city of León where I'm spending Holy Week.  The biggest procession in León is a daytime event on Good Friday, with twelve massive pasos (floats).   It's called The Procession of Pasos.

 

 

The procession was scheduled to leave the church of Santa Nonia at 7:15 in the morning.  A light and steady rain seemed ready to end it before it started.  The pasos (floats) cannot be exposed to even moderate moisture because of the damage it causes to the wood.  Some of the pasos carried during Holy Week are national treasures that date to the 1500s.



After a delay of an hour, the first pasos left Santa Nonia.  The Procession of the Pasos has been in León since 1611.  This is the Oration of Christ in the Garden and dates to 1952.



The Capture is another modern paso.  It was created in 1964.

Some of those carrying the paso show their devotion to penance by walking the many miles and hours of the procession barefoot.



Women have participated in most of the processions for decades.

The Flagellation.  The pasos passed in front of León's Gothic cathedral in addition to many other historic places. While starting in the early morning, the procession did not end until late afternoon.  This paso dates to the 16th century.

 

The Coronation.  Pasos in the processions have traditionally been used to visually represent the story of Christ's passion.

Ecce Homo dates to the early part of the 20th century.



The reverse of Ecce Homo.



Our Father Jesus of Nazareth dates to 1610.  My wife's family has participated in helping to bear this paso for generations.



A closer view of  Our Father Jesus of Nazareth.



Veronica dates to the 1920s.

The Exploiting has been in processions since 1675.

Detail from The Exploiting.  Dice lie atop Christ's robes. 

The Exaltation of the Cross is the newest of the pasos in the procession, from 2000.

The Crucifixion passed through the Plaza of San Isidoro, as did all the pasos.

A close-up of  The Crucifixion.

The Agony of Christ

 

Saint John is from 1946.

The Dolorosa shows the pain of the Virgin.  It is from 1949.

 

 

I hope my photographs and commentary help to give you a feel for Holy Week here in León.  If you would like to follow from the first post, click here.

Tomorrow, I'll be posting photographs and information about another of the great processions of
León:  The Seven Words of Jesus on the Cross.


You can view my website at: www.tombellart.com.